Country guide

Iran Travel Guide: Isfahan, Kashan, Shiraz and Hormuz Island

Our Iran documentary as a guide: Tehran, Isfahan, Kashan’s gardens, Shiraz and Persepolis, Yazd and Hormuz Island, with visa, money and safety notes.

Naqsh-e Jahan Square in Isfahan
Image: Arad · CC BY-SA 3.0

Many people know Iran only from the news. Yet the country has a civilizational heritage stretching back more than 2,500 years, some of the most impressive Islamic architecture in the world and people who are remarkably hospitable in everyday life. In our documentary we tried to show “the Iran the news doesn’t tell you about,” from Tehran’s busy streets to the squares of Isfahan and from the historic gardens of Kashan to the red cliffs of Hormuz Island. This guide introduces the places you see in the video and also includes important practical warnings for anyone thinking about traveling to Iran.

Safety first: Always check before you travel

Iran’s regional and international situation can change quickly. Before planning a trip, check your own government’s current travel advisory, confirm that your travel insurance covers Iran and, if available, register with your country’s traveler enrollment program. Some governments advise their citizens not to travel to Iran at all, and consular help may be very limited. The information in this guide is general and is no substitute for an up-to-date safety assessment.

Isfahan: “Half the world”

An old Persian saying calls Isfahan “half the world.” Naqsh-e Jahan Square, at the heart of the city, is on the UNESCO World Heritage List and is one of the largest city squares in the world. Around it stand the Imam (Shah) Mosque, with its mesmerizing tilework; the Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque, plain outside but magnificent inside; the Ali Qapu Palace; and the covered bazaar.

The historic bridges over the Zayandeh River, especially Si-o-se-pol and the Khaju Bridge, become gathering places in the evening where locals meet and sing. The city’s Armenian quarter, New Julfa, and its Vank Cathedral are also worth a visit.

Kashan: Gardens and mansions

Kashan is an oasis city on the edge of the desert between Tehran and Isfahan. The UNESCO-listed Fin Garden is one of the finest examples of the Persian garden tradition; with its water channels, pools and cypress trees, it reflects a vision of paradise. The city’s historic merchant mansions, with their inner courtyards and wind towers, are ideal for understanding traditional Iranian architecture.

Shiraz and Persepolis

Shiraz is a city of poetry and gardens. The tombs of the poets Hafez and Saadi are important pilgrimage sites for Iranians. The Nasir al-Mulk Mosque, with its pink stained glass, is a photographer’s favorite thanks to the colored light that floods in on mornings.

Near Shiraz, Persepolis, the ceremonial capital of the Achaemenid Empire, is on the UNESCO World Heritage List. Its stone reliefs, columns and gateways still convey the grandeur of the Persian Empire. The rock tombs at nearby Naqsh-e Rostam can be added to the same day.

Yazd: The desert city

Yazd, with its mudbrick houses, wind towers (badgir) and narrow lanes, is often called one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world, and its historic fabric is UNESCO-listed. One of the key centers of Zoroastrianism, the city has a fire temple and the Towers of Silence.

Hormuz Island: Colorful earth

Hormuz Island, in the Persian Gulf, with its red, yellow and purple soil and cliffs, is one of the most unusual parts of the video. The island’s red soil is even used as a spice in local cooking. Boats run to the island from Bandar Abbas; summers are extremely hot.

Tehran

The capital, Tehran, is crowded and chaotic but fascinating. The Golestan Palace (on the UNESCO list), the grand bazaar and museums show the city’s historic side. The Alborz Mountains to the north offer skiing in winter and a cool escape in summer.

Practical info

  • Visas: Rules vary widely by passport. Turkish citizens have long been able to enter visa-free for short tourist visits, while most other travelers need a visa, and citizens of some countries (including the US, UK and Canada) have generally only been allowed to visit on a guided tour. Rules change, so check the current situation with official sources.
  • Money: Because of international sanctions, foreign bank cards generally don’t work in Iran. You need to bring all the money you’ll need for your trip in cash (usually euros or dollars).
  • Dress: Women are legally required to cover their hair in public and wear loose clothing that doesn’t show the body’s shape. Men are advised not to wear shorts.
  • Internet: Many foreign apps and websites are blocked in Iran. Plan your connection in advance: eSIM and connectivity options for Iran.
  • Getting around: For flights to Tehran: flights to Iran. Domestic flights, buses and trains are common between cities.

Where to stay

The most enjoyable places to stay in Iran are traditional boutique hotels in converted historic courtyard houses, especially in Isfahan, Kashan and Yazd. International booking sites may be of limited use in Iran because of sanctions: hotels in Iran. Guided tours can smooth over language and payment issues: tours in Iran.

Sample itinerary: 10 days

  1. Tehran (1–2 days): The Golestan Palace and the bazaar.
  2. Kashan (1 day): The Fin Garden and historic mansions.
  3. Isfahan (3 days): Naqsh-e Jahan Square, the bridges and New Julfa.
  4. Yazd (2 days): The old city, wind towers and Zoroastrian heritage.
  5. Shiraz (2 days): The poets’ tombs, the Nasir al-Mulk Mosque and Persepolis.

If you want to add Hormuz Island, head south from Shiraz to Bandar Abbas.

When to go

Spring (late March–May) and fall (September–November) are the best times. In summer, the interior and the southern coast get very hot. Domestic travel peaks during the Nowruz holiday in late March.

Final word

Iran offers extraordinary history and architecture to anyone ready to look past preconceptions. Watch our documentary, but always base your travel decision on current safety information.

Unusual facts

  1. In everyday life in Iran, prices are usually quoted in “toman” rather than rial (1 toman = 10 rials).
  2. The Iranian calendar is solar, and the new year begins at Nowruz (around March 21).
  3. Naqsh-e Jahan Square in Isfahan is one of the largest city squares in the world.
  4. The wind towers (badgir) of Yazd are a traditional architectural solution for cooling homes long before electricity.
  5. Persian gardens are listed together as a single UNESCO World Heritage site.

Things to watch out for & tourist traps

  • The security situation can change quickly. Before you go, read your government’s current travel advisory; several governments, including the US, currently advise against all travel to Iran.
  • International bank cards don’t work; plan to pay for everything in cash.
  • Dress codes apply in public; headscarves are mandatory for women.
  • Don’t photograph government buildings or military sites.

Frequently asked questions

Can I use credit cards in Iran?

International cards generally don’t work. Bring enough foreign cash and exchange it at official exchange offices.

How many days do I need to see Iran?

Ten to fourteen days is enough for the classic route of Tehran, Isfahan, Kashan, Yazd and Shiraz.

When is the best time to go?

Spring and fall; the interior gets very hot in summer. Everywhere gets crowded with domestic tourists during Nowruz.

You might also like