If you’re wondering where to eat real home cooking in Istanbul, the answer is simple: an esnaf lokantası. Steaming pots in the display case, white tablecloths and waiters asking what they can bring you… In our video we visited 10 of the city’s best-known esnaf lokantası. In this guide we group them by neighborhood and answer the questions of what to eat and how to order.
Esnaf lokantası culture
The esnaf lokantası (literally “tradesmen’s restaurant”) gets its name from being the lunch spot for nearby shop owners, craftsmen and office workers. The menu changes every day and is displayed in a case. You look, point and choose. Portions usually come as “full” and “half”; half portions let you try several different dishes.
Ordering tip: A stew (kuru fasulye white beans, türlü vegetable stew, chickpeas with meat), an olive-oil vegetable dish, a rice pilaf and a dessert is a classic combination. Bread and water usually come to the table automatically.
Beyoğlu: A deep-rooted tradition
Beyoğlu is home to some of the oldest examples of the esnaf lokantası tradition. Hacı Abdullah Lokantası, with a history going back to the late 19th century, is counted among the oldest restaurants in the city and is known for the colorful jars of compote and pickles lining its display. It’s one of the rare places where recipes from Ottoman cuisine are still kept alive.
Kadıköy: Anatolia’s forgotten recipes
On the Asian side, Çiya Sofrası is known for keeping alive nearly forgotten recipes from different regions of Anatolia. You’ll find different regional dishes on the menu every day; combine your visit with a stroll through the Kadıköy market.
The other places on our list
Hünkar, featured in the video, is known for dishes inspired by Ottoman palace cuisine and for its hünkâr beğendi. Also on our list: Meşhur Filibe Köftecisi, famous (as the name suggests) for its meatballs; Balkan Lokantası, for its stews; Erzincanlı Alibaba; Kardeşler Lokantası; Nato Lokantası; Şahin Lokantası; and Yanyalı Fehmi Lokantası, which has been serving for generations. Some of these restaurants have more than one branch; we recommend checking current addresses and opening hours before you go.
Route suggestion: Have lunch around Eminönü–Sirkeci on the day you explore the Historic Peninsula, around Galatasaray on your Beyoğlu day and at the Kadıköy market the day you cross to the Asian side. That way you discover both the city and its food along the same route.
What to eat: Esnaf lokantası classics
- Hünkâr beğendi: Lamb on a bed of smoky eggplant purée.
- Kuru fasulye and pilaf: The inseparable duo of the esnaf lokantası.
- Karnıyarık and imam bayıldı: Two takes on eggplant, one with meat and one in olive oil.
- Meat-stuffed grape leaves and stuffed vegetables.
- Tripe soup and lentil soup: Especially essential in the morning and in winter.
- Compote and milk desserts: Quince dessert, kazandibi (caramelized milk pudding) and sütlaç (rice pudding).
Practical info
- Timing: The freshest, widest selection is at lunchtime. Popular dishes can run out early.
- Prices: An esnaf lokantası is usually cheaper than a regular restaurant, though prices vary by place. Check the price list next to the display.
- Paying: You usually pay at the register; the waiter notes how many portions you had.
- Speed: Since the food is ready, service is very fast. Lingering for a long time during busy hours may not be appreciated.
Final word
The esnaf lokantası is the easiest way to experience Istanbul like a local rather than a tourist. For the city’s sights, see our Istanbul guide, and for what to watch out for, our article on Istanbul tourist traps. For guided food tours: Istanbul tours.
Frequently asked questions
What is an esnaf lokantası?
A traditional restaurant where you pick from stews and dishes cooked that day, displayed in a steam table, usually busiest at lunchtime. The name (“tradesmen’s restaurant”) comes from being the lunch spot for local shopkeepers and workers.
When should I go to an esnaf lokantası?
Lunchtime is the liveliest, and the display is at its fullest. Popular dishes can run out by afternoon, and some places close early in the evening.
