Country guide

Norway Travel Guide: Fjords, Lofoten, the Northern Lights and Trolltunga

Our Norway documentary as a guide: Geirangerfjord, Lofoten, the northern lights, Trolltunga and Bergen, plus seasons, transport and budget tips.

View of the Geirangerfjord
Image: Ximonic (Simo Räsänen) · CC BY-SA 3.0

The first decision to make before going to Norway isn’t where to go but which season. In summer the country offers lush fjords under the midnight sun; in winter, northern lights dancing across a dark sky. They’re two completely different trips. In our video we toured Norway’s most beautiful places, from the Geirangerfjord to the Lofoten Islands and from the northern lights to Trolltunga. So we’ve split this guide into summer Norway and winter Norway.

Summer Norway (June–August)

In summer the sun barely sets in northern Norway, and even in the south the days are very long. The fjords, mountain roads and hiking trails are all fully open.

The fjords

The Geirangerfjord, with its water winding between sheer cliffs and waterfalls tumbling down the rock, is on the UNESCO World Heritage List. The fjord’s famous waterfalls, especially the “Seven Sisters,” are best seen on a boat tour. Nearby, the Nærøyfjord is on the same list and is one of Norway’s narrowest fjords.

One of the most popular ways to see the fjords is on routes that combine train, boat and bus connections. The rail line between Bergen and Oslo and its branch line, the Flåm Railway, count among the most scenic train journeys in the world.

Trolltunga and Preikestolen

Trolltunga (the Troll’s Tongue), a rock ledge jutting horizontally from a cliff, is one of Norway’s most iconic photo spots. Getting there, however, takes a long, demanding, full-day hike. Good fitness, proper gear and a weather check are essential, and going without a guide outside the hiking season isn’t recommended.

Preikestolen (Pulpit Rock), a flat-topped rock dropping straight into the Lysefjord, is reached by a shorter hike than Trolltunga and is very popular in summer.

Bergen

Bergen, the gateway to fjord country, is known for Bryggen, its wharf of colorful wooden Hanseatic buildings, which is also on the UNESCO World Heritage List. The city is famous for its rainy climate too, so don’t forget your rain jacket.

To compare fjord tours and guided hikes: tours and things to do in Norway.

Winter Norway (November–March)

The northern lights

The northern lights (aurora borealis) can be seen in northern Norway, usually from late September to late March. Tromsø is one of the most popular cities for the experience. You need clear weather, a dark sky and a little luck; guided tours that drive away from city lights improve your odds. No tour can guarantee the lights, so it makes sense to set aside several nights.

The Lofoten Islands

Lofoten, with mountains rising straight out of the sea, red fishermen’s cabins (rorbuer) and small fishing villages, is one of the most popular parts of the video. You can visit in summer or winter: hiking and the midnight sun in summer, snowy landscapes and the northern lights in winter. Renting a car is the most practical way to get between villages; roads can be icy in winter.

History and Viking heritage

Norway’s history is as fascinating as its nature. The Viking heritage we touch on in the video can be explored in Oslo’s museums and at historic sites around the country. The medieval wooden stave churches (stavkirker), with their uniquely Norwegian architecture, are worth seeing; Urnes Stave Church is on the UNESCO World Heritage List.

Oslo, with its opera house, museums and modern waterfront architecture, is a good place to start your trip.

Getting around

Norway is a large, mountainous country with long distances and winding roads. Domestic flights are common for long hops between cities. In fjord country, train, ferry and bus connections are well coordinated. Renting a car in the north and in Lofoten gives you flexibility, though winter driving requires experience.

There are direct and connecting flights to Oslo from across Europe and beyond: flights to Norway.

Visas and practical info

  • Norway is not an EU member, but it is part of the Schengen Area. Many travelers (including US, UK, Canadian and Australian citizens) can visit visa-free for up to 90 days in any 180-day period; others, such as Turkish citizens, need a Schengen visa.
  • The currency is the Norwegian krone (NOK). Cards are accepted almost everywhere, and you’ll rarely need cash.
  • For mobile data: eSIM options for Norway.

Where to stay

Bergen, Flåm or Geiranger for the fjords; Tromsø for the northern lights; and traditional rorbu cabins in Lofoten. In popular areas, accommodation fills up fast in summer: hotels in Norway.

Weather and what to wear

The weather in Norway can change several times in a single day. Even in summer, cool winds and rain are common along the fjords, so layers, a waterproof jacket and sturdy hiking shoes are a must. In winter, temperatures in the north drop very low; since you may spend hours outside waiting for the northern lights, pack thermal base layers, thick gloves and a hat. North of the Arctic Circle the sun barely rises in midwinter, so plan your days around the short hours of daylight.

Budget tips

Norway is one of the most expensive countries in the world. To protect your budget:

  • Choose accommodation where you can shop at supermarkets and cook your own meals.
  • Tap water is drinkable, so skip bottled water.
  • Look for early-booking discounts on train tickets.
  • Hiking is free, and it’s often the most rewarding thing to do in Norway.

Final word

In Norway, nature comes first. Watch our video, answer the summer-or-winter question, then plan your route with this guide. Whichever season you choose, Norway will amaze you with its scenery.

Unusual facts

  1. In northern Norway you get the midnight sun in summer and, in winter, the “polar night,” when the sun never rises.
  2. Measured with all its fjords and islands, Norway’s coastline is one of the longest in the world.
  3. The Geirangerfjord and the Nærøyfjord are on the UNESCO World Heritage List.
  4. Thanks to “allemannsretten” (the right to roam), you can hike and camp freely in nature in Norway as long as you follow the rules.
  5. Norway is one of the world leaders in the share of electric cars on the road.

Things to watch out for & tourist traps

  • Weather and road conditions change suddenly in winter; mountain passes can close, so check your route daily.
  • Hikes like Preikestolen and Trolltunga are long and demanding; start early and bring proper shoes and plenty of water.
  • Alcohol is heavily taxed and wine and spirits are sold only in state-run stores (Vinmonopolet) during set hours.
  • Seeing the northern lights is never guaranteed: you need clear skies and darkness, so don’t count on a single night.

Norway guides

Frequently asked questions

Where should I go to see the northern lights?

Tromsø, Lofoten and the regions north of the Arctic Circle, from late September to late March.

What’s the best way to see the fjords?

Train-and-ferry combinations starting from Bergen and the scenic roads around Geiranger are popular.

How can I keep my budget under control in Norway?

Grocery shopping, accommodation with a kitchen and train tickets booked in advance cut costs considerably.

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