Croatia Travel Guide: The Adriatic’s Stone Towns and Waterfalls

Croatia is a long ribbon of coastline along the Adriatic, with hundreds of islands just offshore. In our documentary we didn’t stop at the famous names like Dubrovnik and Split; we traveled from the lakes and waterfalls of the interior to small seaside towns. In this guide we’ve turned that journey into a north-to-south itinerary.

Plitvice Lakes: A land of waterfalls

Plitvice Lakes National Park, with turquoise lakes and waterfalls cascading into one another in steps, is Croatia’s most famous natural wonder. Wooden boardwalks run just above the water. There are trails of different lengths; arrive at opening time to avoid the busiest hours. The park is on the UNESCO World Heritage List.

Zadar and Šibenik

Zadar is known for its Sea Organ, played by the waves, and the “Greeting to the Sun” installation that lights up at sunset. In Šibenik, the stone-built Cathedral of St. James is a must, and nearby Krka National Park is worth a visit for its waterfalls and historic mills.

Split: A city living inside a palace

Split’s historic center is built on the remains of the palace of the Roman Emperor Diocletian; today homes, cafés and shops fill the space between the palace walls. The Riva seafront promenade and Marjan Hill, overlooking the city, are Split’s other classics. Split is also the main port for the islands.

The islands: Hvar, Brač, Korčula, Vis

• Hvar: Lavender fields, a historic fortress and lively nightlife.
• Brač: The famous Zlatni Rat beach, which changes shape with the wind.
• Korčula: A walled old town laid out in a fishbone pattern.
• Vis: A military zone for many years, so it has stayed less developed, quiet and natural.

For boat tours and island trips: things to do in Croatia.

Dubrovnik: Pearl of the Adriatic

Dubrovnik’s old town, ringed by thick walls and centered on its marble-paved main street, the Stradun, looks like a medieval painting. Walking the walls around the city is the best way to see the red-tiled roofs and the sea in a single frame. Take the cable car up Mount Srđ to watch the city from above.

Istria: A touch of Italy

The Istrian peninsula in the northwest offers a completely different Croatia, with hilltop stone towns (Motovun, Grožnjan), the seaside town of Rovinj and Pula with its Roman amphitheater. The region is also famous for truffles and olive oil.

When to go

May–June and September are ideal. July and August are the busiest and most expensive months. Plitvice takes on a different beauty in autumn with its colorful foliage, and in winter with frozen waterfalls.

Getting around

The intercity bus network along the coast is strong, and ferries and fast catamarans run to the islands. A rental car is ideal for exploring Plitvice and small towns at your own pace. For flights: flights to Croatia.

Where to stay

Staying within walking distance of the old towns in Split and Dubrovnik is convenient but pricey; neighborhoods a little farther out can be better value: hotels in Croatia.

What to eat

Grilled fish and seafood, black squid-ink risotto (crni rižot), peka slow-cooked under an iron bell, and Istria’s truffle pasta.

Sample itinerary: 9 days

1. Days 1–2: Zagreb to Plitvice.
2. Day 3: Zadar.
3. Days 4–5: Šibenik, Krka and Split.
4. Days 6–7: Hvar or Korčula.
5. Days 8–9: Dubrovnik.