Balkans Travel Guide: From Mostar to Ohrid, Sarajevo to Kotor

The Balkans are a region that feels both foreign and familiar. Centuries of Ottoman, Austro-Hungarian and Slavic history meet in the same streets: the words you hear in the bazaars, the architecture of the bridges and mosques, the burek and coffee on the table. Meanwhile, the rugged mountains, the color of the rivers and the stories of the cities open the door to a whole other world. In our documentary “The Land Time Forgot,” we started in the shadow of a stone bridge in Bosnia and Herzegovina and traveled on to the towns of Serbia, the steep mountains of Albania and the misty lakes of North Macedonia. This guide is designed to help you turn that journey into your own route.

Bosnia and Herzegovina: Bridges and bazaars

Mostar, with its single-arch Ottoman bridge over the Neretva River, is one of the symbols of the Balkans. Built in the 16th century, the bridge was destroyed during the war in 1993, faithfully rebuilt and reopened in 2004; today it’s on the UNESCO World Heritage List. Divers who leap from the bridge into the river carry on a centuries-old tradition. The bridge and the surrounding stone lanes are much calmer early in the morning.

Sarajevo is a city where East and West meet on the same street. The coppersmiths of Baščaršija, the Gazi Husrev-beg Mosque and the Sebilj fountain carry the Ottoman legacy; a few steps away, Austro-Hungarian buildings begin. Museums about the city’s recent history are important stops for understanding the Balkans.

The Drina Bridge in Višegrad is attributed to the great Ottoman architect Mimar Sinan and inspired the novel by Nobel laureate Ivo Andrić.

Serbia: Fortresses and forgotten towns

Belgrade is known for Kalemegdan Fortress, overlooking the confluence of the Sava and Danube rivers. Watching the rivers meet from the fortress park is one of the city’s best sunset experiences. The abandoned towns and villages you see in the video show a side of the Serbian countryside far from the crowds.

Albania: Mountains, stone towns and beaches

Albania has become one of the most discovered countries in the Balkans in recent years. Berat is called the “city of a thousand windows” for the windows of its white houses stacked up the hillside, while Gjirokastër is known for its stone-roofed Ottoman houses. Both are on the UNESCO World Heritage List.

In the north, the Albanian Alps, with the Theth and Valbona valleys, offer some of the wildest mountain scenery in Europe. In the south, the Albanian Riviera, with clear coves on the Adriatic and Ionian seas, is popular in summer.

North Macedonia: Land of lakes

Lake Ohrid is considered one of the oldest lakes in Europe. The town of Ohrid on its shore, with lakeside churches and stone lanes, is one of the most romantic places in the Balkans; the lake and town are UNESCO-listed together. The misty lake mornings you see in the video are especially striking in the fall.

Skopje is worth a visit for its stone bridge over the Vardar River and its Ottoman-era Old Bazaar.

Montenegro: Bay and mountains

The Bay of Kotor is a fjord-like bay where mountains drop steeply into the sea. The walled old town of Kotor is on the UNESCO World Heritage List. A long staircase climbs to the fortress above town, and the view is worth the effort. In summer, cruise ships can make the old town very crowded.

Sample itinerary: 10–12 days

1. Sarajevo (2 days)
2. Mostar (1 day), with Počitelj and Kravica Waterfall on the way
3. Kotor and Budva (2 days)
4. Albania: Shkodër, Tirana and Berat (3 days)
5. Ohrid (2 days)
6. Skopje (1 day) and departure

This route covers the most-visited spots in the Balkans. If you’d like to add Serbia, start in Belgrade before Sarajevo.

Getting around

International bus networks are widespread in the Balkans, but mountain roads mean journeys take longer than the map suggests. Renting a car is the most flexible option; to cross borders in a rental, you’ll need the rental company’s permission and the right insurance documents. Cities like Sarajevo, Belgrade, Tirana, Skopje and Podgorica have airports with regional and international connections. To compare flights: flights to the Balkans.

Visas and money

• Citizens of many countries, including the US, UK, Canada, Australia and EU member states, can visit Bosnia and Herzegovina, Serbia, Albania, North Macedonia and Montenegro visa-free for short tourist stays; Turkish citizens have also long enjoyed visa-free access. Requirements depend on your passport and can change, so check before you go.
• Crossing into Schengen countries such as Croatia and Greece may require a Schengen visa, depending on your nationality.
• Each country has its own currency (Montenegro and Kosovo use the euro). Cash still matters in small towns.
• If you’ll be crossing borders often, a regional eSIM can be handy: eSIM options for the Balkans.

Where to stay

The most popular areas are around Baščaršija in Sarajevo, guesthouses near the Old Bridge in Mostar, the old town or bay shore in Kotor, and houses near the lake in Ohrid. Family-run guesthouses in the Balkans are both affordable and hospitable. To compare options: hotels in the Balkans.

For guided day trips: tours in the Balkans.

When to go

May–June and September–October are the most balanced times to visit the Balkans. In July and August, the beaches and popular spots like Kotor get crowded and hot. In winter, mountain roads can close due to snow, but cities like Sarajevo have a special beauty under snow.

The Balkan table

Ćevapi, burek, ajvar and kaymak-style cheeses turn up everywhere in the region. Bosnian coffee is similar to Turkish coffee but has its own serving ritual. In Albania and North Macedonia, fresh lake fish and Mediterranean-influenced cooking stand out.

Final word

The Balkans aren’t a region to “see and move on”; they reveal layers of history, the scars of war and life blossoming again, all at once. Watch our documentary to feel the spirit of this land, then plan your own Balkan journey with this guide.