Country guide

India Travel Guide: A Very Different Place from the One You Imagine

Our India documentary as a guide: routes, etiquette, transport, when to go and what to watch out for in the Golden Triangle, Rajasthan, Kerala and Goa.

The Taj Mahal in Agra and its reflecting-pool garden
Photo: wirestock / Envato Elements

We called our documentary “A very different place from the country in our minds,” because India tops the list of countries people visit with preconceptions and leave in awe. It can be crowded, noisy and exhausting, but with its palaces, temples, colors and cuisine, it also offers one of the richest travel experiences in the world. This guide is designed to help you plan your first trip to India region by region.

The Golden Triangle: Delhi, Agra, Jaipur

In Delhi, the narrow bazaars of Old Delhi, the Mughal-era Red Fort and the Jama Masjid are worth seeing, as are Humayun’s Tomb and the Qutub Minar in New Delhi.

The Taj Mahal in Agra is at its most beautiful at sunrise, when the white marble turns pink. Note that it’s closed to visitors on Fridays. Add Agra Fort and the abandoned Mughal capital of Fatehpur Sikri nearby to your route.

In Jaipur, the “Pink City,” the highlights are the hilltop Amber Fort, the Palace of the Winds (Hawa Mahal) with its hundreds of windows, and the Jantar Mantar with its giant astronomical instruments. For tours: things to do in India.

Rajasthan: Palaces and desert

After Jaipur, the rest of Rajasthan awaits: Udaipur, the city of lakes; Jodhpur, with its blue houses; and Jaisalmer, with its golden fort in the middle of the Thar Desert. Camel safaris into the desert leave from Jaisalmer.

Varanasi: On the banks of the Ganges

Varanasi, one of the holiest cities in Hinduism, has an atmosphere unlike anywhere else in the world, with stepped ghats descending into the Ganges. Take a boat out on the river at sunrise and watch the Ganga Aarti fire ceremony in the evening. At the cremation ghats, it’s essential to be respectful and not take photos.

The south: Kerala and Goa

Kerala, in the southwest, offers a completely different, calmer India: houseboat trips through palm-fringed backwaters, the tea plantations of Munnar and Ayurveda centers. Goa, with its Portuguese-era churches and beaches, is ideal for a relaxed seaside break.

The north: The Himalayas

In summer, the high-desert landscapes and Buddhist monasteries of Ladakh, the yoga centers of Rishikesh and the tea gardens of Darjeeling are great ways to escape the heat of the plains.

When to go

October–March is the best time for the plains and the south. From April to June the north is extremely hot, and June to September is monsoon season. The Himalayan regions are visited in summer.

Getting around

Traveling India by train is an experience in itself; tickets on busy routes can sell out weeks in advance. Domestic flights save time over long distances. In regions like Rajasthan, hiring a car with a driver is common and relatively affordable. For flights: flights to India.

Where to stay

In Rajasthan, heritage hotels converted from old palaces and mansions are an unforgettable experience. In big cities, staying near the center and the metro makes getting around easier: hotels in India.

What to eat

In the north: tandoor-baked naan, butter chicken and dal (lentils). In the south: dosa, a thin crêpe made from rice and lentils, and idli, fermented rice cakes. The richness of the vegetarian cuisine is astonishing. Spiced masala chai is sold on every corner.

Sample itinerary: 15 days

  1. Days 1–2: Delhi.
  2. Days 3–4: Agra and Fatehpur Sikri.
  3. Days 5–6: Jaipur.
  4. Days 7–9: Udaipur or Jodhpur.
  5. Days 10–11: Fly to Varanasi.
  6. Days 12–15: Kerala’s backwaters and some downtime.

Unusual facts

  1. India is the most populous country in the world.
  2. The constitution recognizes more than twenty official languages, alongside hundreds of dialects; even the banknotes carry many languages.
  3. Indian Railways is one of the largest rail networks, and one of the largest employers, in the world.
  4. The Taj Mahal is a mausoleum built by the Mughal emperor Shah Jahan for his wife, Mumtaz Mahal.
  5. Chaturanga, considered the ancestor of chess, is believed to have originated in India.

Things to watch out for & tourist traps

  • At train stations, don’t believe people who say “your ticket is invalid” or “the train is canceled” and try to steer you to a private agency; get information from the official counter.
  • Agree on the fare before getting into a taxi or rickshaw, or book through an app.
  • Don’t drink tap water, and ease into spicy and raw foods during your first few days.
  • Take off your shoes and cover your shoulders and knees when entering temples; some temples ban leather items and photography.
  • Keep valuables close to your body in crowded squares and on trains.

Visas & entry

Many nationalities, including US, UK, Canadian, Australian and Turkish citizens, can apply for an Indian e-Visa. Apply only through the Indian government’s official website; look-alike middleman sites may charge extra fees. Check current requirements before you travel.

Visa and entry rules depend on your passport and change often. Before you travel, always check the latest requirements with the destination country’s official sources and your own government’s travel advisory (for US citizens: travel.state.gov).

Frequently asked questions

Where should first-time visitors to India start?

The Golden Triangle of Delhi, Agra (the Taj Mahal) and Jaipur is the easiest and best-known first route, and can be done in 5–7 days.

When is the best time to visit India?

October–March for the plains; summer for Himalayan regions like Ladakh. April–June is very hot, and June–September brings the monsoon rains.

Is India safe?

Millions of tourists visit every year without problems. Basic precautions: stay alert in crowds, avoid deserted areas at night and stick to official taxis and accommodation.

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